The coffee on the ferry from Bergen to Gulen received a solid "3" on a scale from 1 to 10, with 10 meaning "just okay." The shrimp in a tube served for breakfast at the dive resort were optimistically described as "not too bad!" And the snacks we picked up along the way between the airport and the resort often became our lifesavers in the evening when a little hunger crept in. However, the reason Gulen remains one of the best dive trips ever certainly doesn't lie in the food – but in the unique, almost indescribable magic of the place. The breathtaking underwater world, the stunning coastal landscapes, and the tranquil atmosphere make it an unforgettable adventure, far beyond what any meal could provide.
The adventure begins as soon as we arrive at the airport in Bergen, where a cold breeze and the clear, dry air of Norway greet us. From here, we travel by comfortable coach to the ferry, which will carry us through the endless fjords toward Gulen. Norway's fjords stretch like deep, emerald-green gorges through the majestic landscape, their steep, cloud-shrouded rock walls reflecting in the smooth waters, as though they were drawn into the earth by an invisible hand—a sight that halts time and breathes a sense of eternity. Anticipation builds at the thought of immersing ourselves in this living painting. Our destination is Dalsøyra, a sleepy village that consists of little more than a handful of houses and a small harbor. Surrounded by lush green meadows, majestic trees, and icy-cold waters, you immediately feel at home here.
The dive resort, with its location directly by the water, consists of two charming white wooden houses: the residential house, with its cozy rooms, a warm lounge, and a spacious terrace, and the main building, which houses the dining room, the dive center, and another terrace equipped with a hot tub for particularly cold afternoons. A direct entry point to the house reef awaits exploration, and the elegant speedboat (which some mischievous tongues call a "better fishing trawler") is ready to take divers out to the open sea. The house reef dazzles with its enchanting kelp forest landscape, schools of fish, crabs, and an endless view. It’s a magical underwater world that invites divers to discover its beauty, offering an unforgettable experience beneath the surface.
A diver's heart, however, truly begins to race beneath the surface in the crystal-clear waters! The list of dive spots to explore in this region is countless, especially known for the many sunken ships from times long past. Each wreck is surrounded by legends—of smugglers and daring adventurers, and even of mystical octopuses that are said to rise from the dark depths and devour the ships of those who venture too close to the mysterious reefs. These stories become even more fascinating when the dive instructor, who is also the resort's captain, adds his own, often rustic, tales. The wrecks are remarkably well-preserved and clearly visible, especially in the clear freshwater layers. In Gulen, you can dive in both freshwater and saltwater, offering a diverse underwater experience. Many of the wrecks are adorned with soft corals and giant sea stars, which decorate the wooden masts and railings like ancient treasures. The scenes you can capture here are breathtaking: The venerable ships seem both enormous and timeless, illuminated by the glow of diver’s lights. It’s a paradise and a playground for divers with cameras, offering a world of beauty and history to explore.
Two dives per day are to be expected, most of them from the boat. The lunch break is spent at sea, often enjoying a hearty fish soup or vegetables with potatoes—eaten in the cozy confines of the boat's cabin, warmly wrapped in the underlayers of the drysuit. Few moments bring divers closer together than this, sitting side by side on the bench, spooning up the soup, and reflecting on the experiences of the dive. In addition to the wrecks, Gulen also offers reef dives that are uniquely stunning in their bizarre beauty: A quirky underwater world filled with mollusks, robust fish, and jagged rocks, covered in sea stars—a natural spectacle and an absolute "must" for any diver's career. Admittedly, the dives can be quite cold and strenuous, which is why the lift from the boat is a welcome standard for us divers with heavy equipment. This is the perfect dive trip for easy entry and exit, with plenty of equipment like heating systems, twin tanks, and cameras—ideal for lazy divers who prefer comfort while exploring the depths.
And as the day full of impressions slowly winds down and the batteries are recharged for the next day, one last highlight awaits the group: with a bit of luck, the Northern Lights dance across the sky—a sight that leaves tired divers feeling happy and overwhelmed as they return home. A journey like only TSK can make possible—an enchanting place, wonderful buddies, and adventurous dives.
12.11.24, Tabea Schlauri
