March 13, 2024 - On this day, 15 divers set out to the end of the world (and a bit further) to fulfill one of their greatest dreams - a journey to Antarctica, including diving. Getting to the end of the world is no easy feat - the journey to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, takes about 28 hours. But the journey is worth it - we were greeted with the best weather, which made the stunning surroundings of Ushuaia even more remarkable. Our first dive is scheduled in the Beagle Channel. Learning from our last Antarctica trip, we'll be diving with tanks that have only one outlet for the first stage. Most divers have already prepared their regulators for this. However, the local dive center has since modified the tanks, and now most of them have two outlets. What will await us in 2027?
We conducted the dive approximately 20 minutes outside of Ushuaia, at the dive site Isla de Mary. A beautiful kelp forest awaited us, along with many sea stars, crabs, and other smaller underwater inhabitants. It was a great success, and we were even more excited for the upcoming adventure.
The next day, on March 16, 2024, we eagerly boarded the M/V Ortelius from Oceanwide Expeditions. More about the ship can be found at the following link:
Shortly after boarding, the first safety briefings and information sessions began before we could finally set sail towards Antarctica. We were greeted by a very calm Drake Passage, and we were even able to enjoy the crossing on the outer deck. After two days at sea, we reached Antarctic waters, and the first icebergs came into view. These were photographed aplenty (who would have thought we'd see more icebergs during the journey). Then, on March 19th, the moment finally arrived - we awoke amidst a beautiful ice landscape while sailing through the Lemaire Channel. We were welcomed by various Antarctic residents - humpback whales, seals, and penguins. But then it was time, and we headed out for our first dive at Port Charcot. The first dive was a check-dive to familiarize ourselves with the rougher conditions of Antarctica. During the dive in -0.5°C water, we were already surprised by our first highlight - a leopard seal welcoming us. What an experience on the very first dive. The following days did not disappoint either. We had one or more highlights daily. On the second day, one of the highlights was crossing the Antarctic Circle at 66° 33' 39". Early in the morning, we stood on the bridge to experience the moment - nothing physically happens, but still a moment worth celebrating.
The next highlight for many was the dive next to an iceberg. Where is Maik, the TSK underwater photographer, anyway? He was hiding behind his camera, trying everything to capture the perfect picture of his two buddies alongside the iceberg. Despite his buddies' modeling skills not impressing him much, we still find the result more than successful.
After the dives, we could participate in the activities of the other guests. Either there was a Zodiac cruise through picturesque landscapes, usually accompanied by various Antarctic creatures such as humpback whales, seals, or penguins, or we could go ashore. On land, we had the opportunity to observe penguin colonies or visit abandoned research stations from past times. For the more adventurous among us, there was also the opportunity to take a Polar Plunge, a jump into the cold water without a suit. Only a few divers dared to leave their warm dry suits, but for those who did, it was another highlight.
After 7 full days in Antarctica, we set off for our last stop on the journey - Deception Island. Early in the morning, we got ready for the final dive at Whalers Bay. In previous years, this bay was used as a whaling station. The traces of that are still visible today, both underwater and above. Above water, the old and abandoned remnants like the oil silos or huts from that time bear witness to the past, while underwater, hundreds of whale bones are scattered on the seabed. After the dive, we went ashore one last time and returned to the Ortelius around noon, where we then set sail towards Ushuaia.
After the dives, we could join in on the activities of the other guests. Either there was a Zodiac cruise through picturesque landscapes, often accompanied by various Antarctic creatures such as humpback whales, seals, or penguins, or we could go ashore. On land, we had the opportunity to observe penguin colonies or visit abandoned research stations from past times. For the more daring among us, there was also the opportunity to take a Polar Plunge, meaning a jump into the cold water without a suit. Only a few divers dared to leave their warm dry suits, but for those who did, it was another highlight.
After 7 full days in Antarctica, we set off for our final destination on the journey - Deception Island. Early in the morning, we prepared for the last dive at Whalers Bay. In previous years, this bay was used as a whaling station. The traces of that are still visible today, both underwater and above. Above water, the old and abandoned remnants like the oil silos or huts from that time bear witness to the past, while underwater, hundreds of whale bones are scattered on the seabed. After the dive, we went ashore one last time and returned to the Ortelius around noon, where we then set sail towards Ushuaia.
The crossing of the Drake Passage was a bit rougher than on the outbound journey, with waves reaching heights of around 5-7 meters, causing the ship to sway somewhat. However, this didn't unsettle us, and we enjoyed the final days on the ship. In Argentina, we were once again greeted by sunshine and the best weather, and we could enjoy the journey through the Beagle Channel during the last "Captain's Cocktail" event. All good things come to an end, and so on March 29, 2024, we had to bid farewell to the crew who had become dear to us and drive back to the airport, where we concluded the trip with several days in Buenos Aires. In complete contrast to Antarctica, we enjoyed the relatively warm weather, spent the days sightseeing and enjoying good food, and recharged our energy for the journey home.
After nearly three weeks spent together day and night, filled with unforgettable moments and shared experiences, the group of 15 divers has transformed into a circle of friends who have embarked on one of their greatest adventures together.
To wrap it up, we just have one comment from Steffi to add: "The Trip of a Lifetime? Fuck off!" - meaning, we'll be back! 2027, Baby!
For those who want to read more about the journey, feel free to check out the official trip log by Oceanwide Expeditions. You can find it at the following link: Trip Log OTL32-24
Text: Anschi Buschor
